A Poem Called Sikkim

Summer break was almost like a calling- a slow-moving hiatus taking me back home where I looked up to familiar skies powdered with fluffy clouds, and the sun peeking through with its rays shining bright regardless of anyone. It was the first time that our travel-loving family troupe embarked on a weeklong journey to the mountains and hilltop cities of Sikkim- one of India's 'Seven Sisters', the cluster of seven states out of the 28 states that make up the diverse haven of this country, that sits in the northeast direction, connected to the mainland by the narrow, dwindling Siliguri corridor originating from West Bengal. Travelling to Gangtok, the capital city of Sikkim nestled in the green hills garlanded by the Teesta River. Sitting in the Eastern Himalayas, Sikkim receives this river from the glacial snowmelts, thus deeming Teesta as the 'Lifeline of Sikkim'.

MG Road, which is a popular shopping street in Gangtok- vehicles are not allowed much in this area, so the whole street was open for walking and shopping along the way for souvenirs!

I cannot quite put into words the immense beauty, tranquility and awe my heart felt when I first saw the city under the blanket of the night sky that had been knitted with twinkling stars that day. It had been a long, yet pleasurable drive up the roads of the hills to reach the capital- most of us were just waiting to step out of the car and plonk onto the nearest bed with the softest down possible. But the picture of Gangtok, its city lights surrendering to that of the stars, and nothing being heard in the chilly air apart from the song of cicadas, was a fresh break from the buzzing hum and buzz of metropolitan life.

Sikkim at nighttime, in the hills

Over the next 7 days we had given ourselves here, we travelled to various places spread across North, East and South Sikkim by car, the travel eating up hours of time before we realized it. However, it was only through these long journeys that we happened to really understand and learn more about Sikkim, the nature it harbors, its history, culture and the people here who present the perfect example of human beings and nature living in mutual harmony with each other. All throughout our long drives, Sikkim was a serenade of clouds- rainfall welcomed the start to each day, persisting throughout and receding through light pitter-patter as night fell. Bipul Chhetri's Asaar playing on the speakers, singing the story of the rain, only made the memory even sweeter to remember and cherish.

'Asaar'- Sketches of Darjeeling, Bipul Chhetri's debut album released in 2013 (Photo Credits- Google)

The people here live, having understood the true meaning of harmony, and only taking what they need from the abundance of nature around them, and recognizing them as life that deserves to be treasured. Conflicts do not escalate into fights or a loss of self-control- rather the people are open to talk it out peacefully and follow the policy of always ending things on a good note. Streets are kept clean no matter the weather or circumstance, the breeze arrives with its undying freshness each day, and children walk mountainous roads in the evenings unaccompanied and without fear, for Sikkim is not a place where man-made threats exist.

Orchids, given the status of Sikkim's state flower, and blue 'Neelkants' grow lushly along the sides of the roads, bringing a smile to the face of tourists and locals alike. Here, every house has in it pulchritudinous, nourished flowers, for their philosophy preaches that a house without flowers is one that is one without a good personality or warmth or one in which growth cannot be nurtured- a mirror of the soul, in a way. This is another way through which the people of Sikkim embody the importance of embracing the nature that they reside in, holding immense sacred value. The people here believe in inner discipline and presenting utmost respect to everyone who visits and are also very enthusiastic to learn more about the parts of India that lie beyond reach for some of them, while at the same time taking pride in sharing the different traditions and aspects of their culture with an open heart and a clear mind. Mount Kanchenjunga, the third highest peak in the world, is worshipped as a powerful guardian deity by the people.

The Neelkants, literally translating into 'blue eyes', that dotted the roadsides almost everywhere in Sikkim. They are found in purple shades too in certain areas.

The state is home to people hailing from different religions, including Tibetan Buddhism, Hinduism, and Christianity. During our journey through Gangtok, we witnessed the body of a monk being carried through the streets for cremation and several Sikkimese people on the sidelines to honor the passing of the monk whose body had been perfectly preserved in the lotus position after death. It is believed that when an esteemed monk passes away, the body goes into a meditative state, which the culture calls 'Thukdam'. In this state, the heart has stopped beating, but the body does not go into decay and is kept in a shrine in the monastery until the monk's consciousness leaves on its own at the end of meditation, after which decay sets in. Only then is the monk taken for cremation.

Sikkim's cultural heritage is of high importance to the native people, and so the government has strictly implemented laws in place to prevent people from outside Sikkim from buying land or property in the state- this is a privilege reserved for the locals here, thus preventing urbanization from disturbing the heritage preserved. All throughout Sikkim, Buddhist white, and sometimes colored flags in numbers of 108, though variable are planted across the sides of the roads. These are called Darcho, and the direction in which they fly is said to be in the direction of positivity.

All through the roads, we would also witness military trucks trudging up the menacing mountains, with quiet, determined soldiers far away from their homes, working hard in service to the country, patrolling its borders and keeping danger at bay. It was a reminder for the days we sleep at night peacefully, because of the soldiers who spend sleepless nights and long days protecting the country with their lives so we could lead ours without fear.

I remember walking up to the Zero Point early on in our trip. North Sikkim is distinguished by its location in the Eastern Himalayan mountains, with snow-capped peaks even in the midst of summer. In general, the Zero Point marks the end of any form of road infrastructure and the point of an international border, in our case, the India-China border post, with snow covering everything for as far as the eye could see. The cold, relentless breeze cut to the bone, but standing there at the edge of our country was pretty enthralling!

Of course, being in Sikkim meant you had the chance to visit the holy temple shrine erected in honor of Indian Army soldier Baba Harbhajan Singh at Nathula Pass in East Sikkim, sitting close to the Indian-Tibetan border. This shrine is the afterthought of the legend behind Baba, a member of the 23rd Punjab regiment, who at the age 22, drowned in a mountain stream when escorting mules carrying supplies high up in the steep passes. A soldier at the time recounted that shortly after his death and a search operation to recover his body that went in vain, Baba appeared in his dream and gave him details of the exact location of his body and requested that a shrine be built in his honor. His body was indeed found at the said location, and the shrine had been built, after cremation with the military honors. Historically, even after his death in 1968, soldiers of the Indian Army, as well as the Chinese Liberation Party guarding the borders recalled seeing apparitions of Baba as a lone turbaned guard patrolling the peaks at night and also informing the Indian Army of incoming danger and threats in sight, continuing to do his duty even after his death. To this day, his uniform and boots are maintained neatly in the shrine, and soldiers report coming back the next morning to find it drenched in mud, as though he had returned from patrolling at night.

Baba Harbhajan Singh (Photo Credits- Google)

Apart from being a hub for legends and real-life stories shrouded in mystery, Sikkim is also home to the green, lush spans of the Yumthang Valley, its very own 'Valley of Flowers', dotted with grazing yak with the Teesta River flowing right through. The valley was also closer to the mountainous region of Lachung. Even though May was coming to an end, the water was incredibly cold, and so was the air- really made me wish I was a yak myself!

Yumthang Valley, a shot taken from the car :)

The Teesta River, flowing through the Yumthang Valley

View from a hotel in Lachung

Along the way, cozy home style inns and restaurants catered momos, hot chai, and delicious Maggi for people en route to the various tourist spots. Some of these were often at the top of the mountains, having plenty of warm refreshments for the cold weather. Another food and drink tidbit we discovered was medicinal wine made entirely from rhododendron flowers, prepared and sold in places closer to the Himalayas as these flowers are found only at its foothills. With the final leg of the journey directed towards South Sikkim came relief from the cold weather, and a reintroduction to comfortably warmer and hay climate, which took us to Ravangla and its well-known Buddha Park. Buddha Park is home to the enormous spirituality of the breathtaking 130-feet tall Shakyamuni Buddha, housing inside a museum and temple adorned with ancient murals depicting the life and teachings of the Buddha. The place invoked a sense of tranquility and calmness that made all the other voices in my head go silent and surrender to the peaceful, yet invigorating beauty and significance of the place. All over the park were quotes of the Buddha reminding us that with life comes its arduous struggles, all of which are tests that teach us the meaning behind the journey of our soul and the depth of its spirit- to learn to keep its fire alive and not let anyone else dictate whether it should burn strong or low.

Buddha Park, Ravangla

The Buddha Park with lighting at night

A very memorable part of our drive back to Gangtok from Ravangla were the spooky story session that we shared with our driver, with him narrating certain real-life scares that still make him shudder to this day. As someone who is a fan of the genre, it was a night drive I did not want to end!

All through our journey, Sikkim's beauty only increased and deepened our wonder. The hills were kissed by fog, and the clouds descended from the heavens to lie at the foothills that meet the Teesta River, waterfalls in every possible nook, making hearts yearn to stay back in this abode forever. Though it is sad to see how the people, culture and the stories of the Northeast has been in the background of India's mainstream for decades, and its people are subject to mistreatment from their own countrymen for 'not looking like a typical Indian', Northeast India is a region colored by irreplaceable beauty and emotion, which can never be separated from the country, nor should be forgotten by it. There wait verses and stories in this poem waiting to be discovered and celebrated, worth discovering and celebrating.

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